Monday, March 31, 2014

REVIEW - Frances

Having opened in 2009, it's somewhat of a marvel that this place is still packed every night of the week, and requires that one books two months out in order to get a table at a reasonable dinner hour.

It's even more of a marvel considering - as I do now that we've eaten there for the first time - it's not that good.

The food has its moments. Our first appetizers - or bouches as they're shown on the menu - were first class. We had the Applewood Smoked Bacon Beignets and the Duck Liver Mousse, both of which had us salivating for more. Our Baby Kale Salad, with Medjool Date, Roasted Baby Carrot, Almond, and Pecorino di Rocca was OK. Nothing to sing about. Our entrees were mixed, or at least our enjoyment of them was. Mrs P had the Pacific Halibut, with Toasted Fregola, Charred Garbanzo, Spinach, and Green Olive, and she pronounced it "delicious, a real treat". I fared less well, with the Five-Dot Ranch Bavette, with Spring Onion Jus, Black Chanterelle, Comté & Toasted Levain. It didn't look like a great cut of meat, and tasted just so-so.

The decor is modest. The floorboards creak too much. And the tables are jammed in a bit too tight for comfort. All in all, Frances is not a destination restaurant, and definitely not the place for an all-important date.

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