It's hardly worth extolling the virtues of the quartet of restaurants in this group (Chez Papa Mint Plaza, Pizza Nostra, Chez Maman and the one we ate at tonight, the original Chez Papa on Potrero Hill), seeing as everyone must already know how good they all are. The food - Lamb Daube, Hanger Steak and Duck Confit, each graced with the world's richest sauce - are benchmarks for other French restaurants in San Francisco, and when complemented by last night's choice of appetizers - warm potato, asparagus and artichoke salad with shaved parmesan and bacon, and Lawrence's choice of open-face ravioli with shitake and oyster mushrooms, jus and truffle oil, the place just can't be beat.
It's crude to suggest that you "wash that down with an excellent Burgundy", but do just that and the night will be perfect.
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