Maybe the thing to do is to pick places that don't crow about themselves, and don't invent fancy names for everything ("upland cress" anyone, one of NOPA's many overblown descriptions, along with "grilled bread" and "Nantes carrots" for heaven's sake! Were those carrots really flown over from France, and if so, why?)
Grub wouldn't be caught pumping hot air into its menu. It's un-complicated, un-assuming and un- a lot of things wrong with many other restaurants.
Lawrence's flat-iron steak and my osso bucco were fabulous, with rich red wine reductions and perfect vegetable / potato accompaniments. The service was delightful, and the price unbeatable.
The place was packed at 8.30pm on a Sunday night, and even though the web-advertised valet service was a no show, we were able to park right opposite, on Valencia.
Our aperitifs, Boddingtons in the nearby Phoenix, made for a superlative night out with my bro.
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