Saturday, November 7, 2009

REVIEW - Flour and Water, San Francisco

This new restaurant in The Mission is insanely popular, requiring that you book a month in advance to get a prime-time reservation. Part of that booking dynamic is caused by the size of the place (it's not huge) and the fact that half the seats (including those at the bar and communal dining table) are set aside for walk-ins.

Which is what we did Thursday evening.

After a tasty crispy pork appetizer, I had the Topinambur pizza, with a list of toppings that will have you looking at the WTF section of your recipe book: Sunchoke (aka Jerusalem Artichoke), Fior di latta (mozzarella), Gremolata (parsely, garlic and lemon zest) and Anchovy. Oh, and an egg that they forgot to add. I usually like a sliver of anchovy dotted here and there on my pizza, for the occasional kick that it delivers. However, this one tasted like an anchovy pizza, with the intense fish having permeated the entire dish. The base itself was curiously dry and dusty with flour, more like pitta than pizza. I can see how they're trying to differentiate their pizzas, but it didn't work for me.

Pavey started with the Striped Bass crudo with fennel, which was even fishier than the "crudo" warning sign implied (6/10), followed by the Game Tagliatelle, which looked dreadful but tasted much better (7/10, with 1 point deducted for the waiter correcting her when she said Tagliatell. "Tagliatell-ee".)

A very happening place, with food that will have you talking, if not unreservedly savoring.

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