Friday, December 2, 2011

REVIEW - Fondue Cowboy

There's a saying that indoor fireworks have an excitement value inversely proportional to their name. In other words, a "Super Volcano" will no doubt be less exciting than a "Volcano". You must have wasted money on indoor fireworks to appreciate the diss, but I'm supposed to be talking about a restaurant here.

"Fondue Cowboy" has an undeniably hip name, but it's one the restaurant completely wastes.

Its location on seedy Folsom Street ought to give the game away, as the place is slightly better than a dive cafe, but not so much that you feel you're dining out for the evening.

I was so looking forward to having my first fondue since all those Austrian, Swiss and Italian ski holidays, but this was a big let down.

The place is pretty spartan (as in bare and un-interesting, rather than violent and blood-thirsty). Other reviewers warned that it can be noisy, and so it was last night, with one boisterous table making it too noisy for us to easily talk. And the food wasn't worth the effort - a well-meaning but in the end un-exciting dollop of deconstructed pizza topping warmed up in a bowl with plentiful but uninspiring bits of potato, fruit, bread, and meat to dip in it.

So, all in all a very "un" everything night.

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