RAVE - Starry Kitchen, Los Angeles

This was the ultimate pop-up eaterie, currently occupying the space inside Chinatown's Jazz Club - which features it seems everything but Jazz - with an eclectic, Pan-Asian menu the owner said is always changing.

Starry Kitchen features Singaporean chili crab, a giant beast bathed in a complex sauce and ideal for everyone to tuck in and share.

We started with the crispy, green tofu balls and, while the others in our party of five munched on the crab, I tucked into the double-fried sweet ginger chicken wings, the Pandan chicken, and the braised sweet soy sauce ginger pork belly.

The food was sensational, and once the place filled up it made the otherwise drab interior of the Jazz Club feel like a genuine destination restaurant.