The answer is: something and nothing.
His approach is bold - that much was obvious from his food at Incanto; plenty of pig's head, offal, and bone marrow. Some of that carries through to Cockscomb.
For appetizers, we had the Grilled Cheese, with duck egg and honey (too sweet), and the Country Pate, with pistachios, and cornichons (not enough flavor, not enough salt). For entrees, we had the Meat Pie, with beef, oysters, and vegetables (again, not enough seasoning, and the oysters were overpowering and had to be set aside on the plate), and the Pasta, which wasn't really pasta but noodles made from pig's skin. This was the standout dish of the evening, if only there was more of it. The relatively small dish of pig skin pasta was dwarfed by the Meat Pie. Shame.
Plenty o'atmosphere, with a bustling crowd and Mr TV Chef himself in attendance.
Strange that the experience was somewhat hampered by the mis-application of honey (too much), oysters (too many), and salt (not enough).
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