REVIEW - Aquitaine

There are a couple of new trends in SF dining that we've seen emerge during the past few months: Japanese and French restaurants. That second trend led to Michael Bauer, SF food critic reviewing new French restaurant Aquitaine and giving it a thumbs up.

Yet again, I have to disagree with Monsuier Bauer, who declared the cassoulet "worth driving hundreds of miles for". I tried Aquitaine's cassoulet and believe I could save several hours by driving instead to Yountville's Bistro Jeanty, whose cassoulet was a piping hot dish of vibrant ingredients. I found the Aquitaine version to be a dull and stodgy copy, with half the volume and one tenth the flavor.

Other courses similarly left us wanting. Madamoiselle Page's Serrano Ham with Tomato, Garlic and Thyme Tartines seemed lackluster when compared with the same fare a week or so ago at Coquetta. My Brochettes - Prosciutto, Cheese, Cherry Tomatoes, and Pickled Piparra Peppers sounded much more dramatic than they in fact were - bits of mismatched stuff stuck on a few sticks. Her Coq Au Vin was also lacking when compared with the competition.

The wine choices proved interesting and tasty though, which partially made up for the less than stellar food and the lack of Saturday night vigor at the half-empty Aquitaine.