After my falling out of love with the other notable British-themed restaurant in town - The Cavalier - we decided to try out recent newcomer The Coachman for an alternative.
While The Cavalier attempts a somewhat retro British look - hunting prints, wood, and subdued colors - The Coachman borrows from many styles, refreshingly un-British in its decor. It did have - for at least the night we were there - a distinctly UK-centric soundtrack playing in the front third of the place, which is mainly taken up by a few tables and the open kitchen. The middle is occupied by a long bar, and the rear opens out into the main dining area.
That's where we waited - and waited - for the server, first to bring menus, then to come back and ask us if we wanted anything to drink, then to go away and order the drinks from the bar, then to come back and ask us if we'd chosen our meals, and so on for what seemed like an eternity. It would be easy to say that the "eternity" detracted from the overall experience. But the main detraction came from the food.
The chips and gravy, braised lamb, pork belly, cheddar, and fermented chili were sloppy, tasty, inelegant, and filling. A little too filling for us to complete our entrees: Ribeye (tough), Yorkshire pudding (overcooked, and greasy), and Mash (ruined by having too much parsnip); Lamb roast (fatty / chewy), curried aubergine, savory oatmeal, and roasted carrots.
All in all a not very good advertisement for British food.
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