When there's so much competition, at every level - low-end cheap 'n nasty right up to pricey and pretentious - it's not difficult to criticize an elegant, relative newcomer to the SF restaurant scene.
The look at Cafe des Amis is just a bit too good, almost perfect. Why's that a problem? Because it's meant to be a French bistro, and no real, French bistro looks this good.
Surprisingly, the food was nowhere near as precious. It's not haute cuisine; it's down an intentional notch or two from that. It's more provincial, country-side or neighborhood French, with the good and bad that brings.
The clam Pavey ordered for her appetizer was mostly raw, despite the explicit instructions she gave to our waiter. My truffled gnocchi was wonderful. Pav's Cassoulet (slow cooked tondini bean casserole with duck confit, bacon, garlic sausage and pork shoulder) was - according to the gourmande herself, fabulous but "too much food". My Choucroute Garnie (pork belly and loin, braised bacon, frankfurter, potatoes, carrots and sauerkraut) was waaaaaay too salty. I couldn't tell if there were any other flavors being masked by the overpowering saltiness, but I don't feel inclined to give them the benefit of the doubt.
The wine list was bereft of anything under $70, so our $90 Vosnes-Romanee while excellent, was used literally to wash down the salty surfeit.
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